Meet our team

• Q:  Why UL? Can any electrician build a cut off / “kill switch”? A: Yes - BUT it would be against NEC code, so technically no: as per the National Electrical Code (NEC) certain electrical equipment requires a 3rd party inspection for safety. For our product we use UL (Underwriters Laboratory) because they the oldest and most recognized certification agency . They inspect and certify that our product is in compliance, meet the requirements and allows us to give it a UL listing. Even a kit made of UL listed parts is NOT a certified product because it is not 3rd party inspected for safety.
• Q:  What does this mean for the consumer? A: If a cut off / "kill switch" device is installed and is inspected by your local electrical inspector and the switch does not have a 3rd. party certification he could have you remove it. In case of a claim, if your insurance company finds a non-certified product, it could void your home owners insurance . . . AND THIS HAS HAPPENED

• Q:  I’ve heard that unplugging items, and moving the head of my bed a couple of feet away from the wall,  is adequate mitigation for electric items in the bedroom.  Is that not OK? A:  It is not adequate.  Electric fields exist simply because of live wiring in the walls and extend out 6-8 feet from every wall.  — If you think of the live wiring as essentially long extension cords going all the way to the main electrical panel source, then those fields will  be eliminated when those cords are unplugged only (ie.  power is disconnected)!
• Q:  We’ve had wiring in homes for decades.  Why in the world do we need to turn off circuits now and not in the past? A:  Great question.  It is because all other sources of EMF are rapidly increasing (mainly wireless) and you need “total EMF quiet” for your body to rest and recover from your daytime exposure.  Also, there is by electrician estimation anywhere from 20-100 times more wire in homes today as compared to 50 years ago and electric fields are themselves a problem for many people — especially in regards to quality sleep.
• Q:  The body voltage method is tedious and time-consuming…? A:  To some people, yes, to others the discovery is fun.  Either way, it is the best method to determine the presence and effects of electric fields . . . Brain fog, poor health, etc.. are even more inconvenient….
• Q:  Can we leave the AC and/or heat on with the EMFSafeSwitch? A:  The whole idea here is to selectively turn off some power/circuits -- otherwise we would just "kill" the whole house.... Typically, the power to the heating and cooling systems is remote from sleeping areas and does not "add" voltage to those areas....  but if nearby, testing would be needed.
• Q:  I was told that I just need to put dirty electricity filters in my home and that would take care of the “problem”.  Is this not correct?A:  Dirty electricity filters are a good daytime solution as they “clean up” the power source when the power is ON but they can increase the magnetic field in the process.  For nighttime mitigation and to get rid of electric fields, you must turn the power OFF.  Doing so gets rid of dirty electricity too as it rides on top of the baseline power.
• Q:  If everything is turned off and I get in bed and hit the EMFSafeSwitch button, how can I be sure that the power has been disconnected? A:  Good Question.  We recommend that you use night lights that come on when the room is dark.  When you see those go off, then you know that you effectively hit the button and killed the power.  We use red night lights that do not disrupt melatonin/circadian rhythm:  if you have to get up in the middle of the night, just hit the EMFSafeSwitch button and you will have red lighting to assist you.
• Q:  Do we turn off all of the electricity in the house? A:  No, just selected circuits.  Look at the Which Switch? page for different approaches to deciding just how much of your home’s power  you want and need to disable. 
• Q:  How much of an EMF signal does the FOB put out? A:  It is a momentary pulse (a few milli-seconds)  just like your garage door opener or car door opener FOBs.  In the world of EMF exposure, it is very minimal.
• Q:  What is the difference between a surface mount and flush mount and outdoor box/enclosure? A:  The surface mount will be on top of your finished wall (like hanging a picture on the wall) and will project out about 4 inches from the wall surface.  The flush mount is attached behind the finished wall surface (between the studs) and when the cover is on will be flush (even) with the finished wall surface.  Typically flush mount may be installed in new construction before sheetrock is installed or in very finished areas.  The surface mount is typically acceptable in garages , basements or other out-of-the-way areas.  Any outdoor installation requires our outdoor rated box (self explanatory) by code.
• Q:  What about “harmonizers“ and “neutralizers” for dealing with EMF? A: If your phone, lights & appliances all still work, then you still have electromagnetic fields. This EMF is still affecting your body, cells, DNA and health - science is science.

• Q:  What does UL listed product mean? A: UL (Underwriter Laboratories) is the main 3rd party safety certifying organization in the US.  It means that our assembled product has been inspected, undergone evaluation including possibly testing and certified as safe for your home.  To maintain our UL licence we must use only UL approved parts, undergo regular inspections of our products and attend educational programs.  Other companies may advertise UL listed parts; but that is vastly different than a UL approved product. Per the NEC (National Electrical Code), assembled products must be 3rd party approved for electrician installation in your home. If not your home owners insurance could be voided.

The EMFSafeSwitch is built in America in a 508A UL industrial control panel shop and come as a complete unit ready to install, which should only take about two hours (if no other work is being done). Being UL listed they are safe for your home, will pass building inspection and not void your home owners insurance.

(A non-UL listed "kit" should not pass inspection and could void your insurance!).